Prasat Preah Vihear - Mountain Temple
Our Journey to The Sky Temple & Adventurous Border Crossings.
Before we even left the United States, Jessica had it in her mind that we were going to visit this temple. Well, upon further research we found it difficult and very expensive (if going by a day trip from Siem Reap). Not many people venture here from Cambodia because it's remotely located in the Deep North, and off the main roads (+ tourist trail). There's no villages or quaint outside townships to stay. The community near the temple is a dusty, rustic, traditional Cambodian town, so it's either go for it and stay there, or take a day trip. The day trip price can go into hundreds dollars -- and these trips are so rushed, we don't feel that you get a good sense of where you are & why you're there. The Temple lies on the border of Thailand, Laos, in a remote area guarded by the Cambodian military. Upon looking at pictures online, we were determined to go to this Temple, it looked incredible.
Additionally, we were committed to cross a remote, pot holed (and questionable) Northern border into Thailand (additionally somewhat close to the region). We did this to save ourselves from having to circle back to Siem Reap (which would be nightmarishly long) and loose several days of travel. Sha helped us get a bus to Preah Vihear, " but as with all things in Cambodia," nothing is as it seems! We left on a bus that was apparently going to Laos and would drop us only 4/5's of the way in. The transport services forget to mention that the we'd not be taken directly to our destination, but at a small, dust strewn village, 100 Kilometers away from where we were going. In this place, no one spoke English & hard negotioans had to be made with zealous taxi drivers, on the moment -- "in our new found drop zone."
It was instantaneous and Jess and I were left to scrap out ... "What the fuck are we doing now?" Ok, we thought "keep calm," work through this. We called our transport (shadey guy named BOBO) & he later told us. "Oh you just have to negotiate with this towns drivers either wait out a good deal or go with their price, that's your business now?" But we had our Good friend from Siem Reap give us a hand. With loads of help from Sha (using our prepaid phone / & some back and forth bartering for price) we found a ride to Preah Vihear and were dropped off at the only guesthouse in town (if you can call it a town). More so, the guest house looked like a gritty Cambodian truck stop. Ok we think -- now what? But in going to these places we, found that a village with a crusty exterior can open up on different levels and can't be immediately judged on the surface.
After further inspection, we found (despite the crusty, industrious exterior -- the rooms were pretty nice). After stocking away our gear, we found 2 guys waiting outside our guesthouse to take us by motorbike to the Temple. It's the main reason why people come here. After further (hand talking, research / translation), we gained clarification on the complicated 2 part transportation process from our town -- to the Sky Temple.
We found that we first ride through the country via Moto transporters (apprx 1 hr) this gets you through the jungle and to the temple park grounds. Then we had to change to 2 other motorbike drivers which drive us up a steep road to the temple. These Sky Temple drivers were equipped with much stronger Motos. They drove with serious intent and conviction. They were commissioned by the park and drove solely to get you up and down the mountain -- without fail. It was an adventure, especially since you we were on a bike with a complete stranger (Shawn's 1st time riding double in the back). As well, ripping up the mountain with the Park drivers because the hills are steep and we we're loaded with day pack and hiking / trekking gear.
Plainly put -- the mountain guides "hauled ass to get us up to the temple, it's was great." We were in the middle of nowhere only getting by with hand language. The temple was more than worth it. There were views of Laos, Thailand and Cambodia. The temple was built on the top of the mountain during the 11th century. It was full of border military (and thier residing families). People here were very friendly asking where we were from, practicing English, and inquiring about our towns and culture. It's strange to meet such kind people in uniform. We later found out because the military presence is due to the boarder location & that is prided as a national monument by both Thaialand and Cambodia.
Back at the guesthouse, the next morning we decided to take our chances at the border crossing. We got little -- to no information on whether we could cross, what we could expect on the other side, etc... Mainly, because the locals are not allowed to cross the boarder and cannot emigrate easily to Thailand. So all discussions of boarder crossing with locals (in Cambodia ... Not including Siem Reap, was quite taboo).
Both our lonely planet book and everyone came off mysterious about the crossing. Frankly, no one knew wether it was open & avalaiable. We decided to go for it and take the road less traveled. Arriving at the border (via dirty taxi) we found a small entry passage on a dusty, potholed road. We arrived to smiling Thai gaurds and we succeeded in crossing. As luck had it, a Thai businessman overheard our conversation with a customs agent, discussing how to get into town or to a bus that would take us to Si Saket (which was 2hrs away, but had a major train station). This kind businessman offered us a ride (which we gladly paid for) all the way to the train station in Si Saket (about 100 kilometers). He drove us in his "very nice, Lexus SUV and treated us like family." And there begins our journey through Thailand.
The temple was amazing with fantastic views. It's was truly a special place and worth the experience. Hard work pays off, and in this adventure our investment in people, sign language, and gut instinct paid off Ten - Fold. This journey blew our minds, completely.
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